Old Growth fir topping

[RC0]

24 minutes ago, AHPP said:

Good video as always. Thanks for putting them up.

Did you consider boring it? Small saw with a 16" bar maybe. Obviously far harder for the gob but a much more manageable saw for a bore. Maybe on a shallow lean, the 30" bar, take the sides in and fast back cut is the way but on a hard lean the scales could tip in favour of boring. Thoughts?

The canopy weight on the fall side was enormous, loaded with 8 inch 25 ft limbs. A bore cut would work fine, no doubt. Consider though, if you thing it's safe to position yourself on the underside of that lean cutting away at the holding wood with a lititle saw. Let's say that goes ok and it's time to evenly create a hinge across 30 in with a 16 in bar without the top releasing prematurely. Having a saw that cuts and closes the gap fast enough to keep up with the pull of gravity in such situations is critical. That's a ported 372 with  brand new chain. I knew I could cover that ground fast with enough bar length to span the dia meter required. On the ground it's different, you can run off in the worst case scenario. Up there you're stuck. If an internal split is pre-existing, or develops during such a situation, itd be hard pressed to extent to the outside and barberchair because the side cuts have already released the tension. But listen, I'm not a teacher, don't take my word for anything. Every individual should just do what they feel is best. If in doubt, climb higher.

[Darrin Turnbull]

Watched it again . The difference between the two top is like night and day.
Teasing the first one over , second one was more like a explosion [emoji95]
The video quality is excellent makes you think you’re there.

[AHPP]

The canopy weight on the fall side was enormous, loaded with 8 inch 25 ft limbs. A bore cut would work fine, no doubt. Consider though, if you thing it's safe to position yourself on the underside of that lean cutting away at the holding wood with a lititle saw. Let's say that goes ok and it's time to evenly create a hinge across 30 in with a 16 in bar without the top releasing prematurely. Having a saw that cuts and closes the gap fast enough to keep up with the pull of gravity in such situations is critical. That's a ported 372 with  brand new chain. I knew I could cover that ground fast with enough bar length to span the dia meter required. On the ground it's different, you can run off in the worst case scenario. Up there you're stuck. If an internal split is pre-existing, or develops during such a situation, itd be hard pressed to extent to the outside and barberchair because the side cuts have already released the tension. But listen, I'm not a teacher[emoji4], don't take my word for anything. Every individual should just do what they feel is best. If in doubt, climb higher.

 

It’s largely academic. I’d have wanted the big saw rather than spiking around to match cuts (unless it was a truly exceptional lean/weight - or I’d just go higher).

I don’t follow what you’re saying about the side cuts. I use them to make the back cut faster and prevent barber chairs that way. If you cut slowly, surely you still risk barber chairing, the crack starting in the narrow rectangular bit and then spreading to the full width.

Or is it that the sides of the stem contain the inner stem that might want to chair?

 

[AHPP]

Looking at it again, it seems like the latter.

[RC0]

24 minutes ago, AHPP said:

Looking at it again, it seems like the latter.

Yes mate. What you said last. 

[AHPP]

Much obliged. Might be useful for my next 30 foot silver birch.

[Khriss]

Splendid video- had to check my pants just watchin it K

 

( Nice to see side cuts happnin - nothing like cambium ripping down n givin you a twang in yr harness ! )

Edited February 4, 2018 by Khriss
I remmberd somthing