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Palax combi m1 and m2 differences


John Shutler
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3 hours ago, farmboy3 said:

what is the maximum diameter you can put through these machines,I know the palax website says 10 inches but can you get away with slightly larger?

12 inches for putting through the circular saw and slightly larger if you have a length cut with the chainsaw that you just want to put through the splitter, you have to drop that one straight on the splitter bed.

Totally agree with Timbernut concerning blades versus chainsaws.  A good blade with sharp tungsten tips goes through 95% of timber like a knife through butter and does not need sharpening as often as a chain.

 

Timbernut has your Mk2 an easy adjuster for the static axe, and if so is it just as easy to remove and replace the static axe?

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Timbernut has your Mk2 an easy adjuster for the static axe, and if so is it just as easy to remove and replace the static axe?


I only have the 4 way splitter but it's just a case of removing pin n washer to slide the lever out and change blade, adjustment does stick a bit sometimes as its manual, think later ones at hydraulic?

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1 hour ago, timbernut said:


 
Timbernut has your Mk2 an easy adjuster for the static axe, and if so is it just as easy to remove and replace the static axe?


I only have the 4 way splitter but it's just a case of removing pin n washer to slide the lever out and change blade, adjustment does stick a bit sometimes as its manual, think later ones at hydraulic?

But you do have a big lever to raise or lower the blade manually?   My Mk 1 you have to undo a bolt which locks the blade and then grab the blade and pull it up or down.  I did weld a handle on the nut to at least make that part easier.  A hydraulic device would be great but another thing to go wrong.   I find that I am now splitting far less timber as the stove burns more evenly and lasts longer with lengths of round unsplit, so the blade spends most of its time off the machine.

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