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Bu88ered up me chain


Lazurus
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Hi Lazarus,
Cut away with it as it is. It will actually produce a very clean finish, though slower to push through the log. Its a common angle for super hard and exotic woods. Change the angles back at the next sharpening if you need to. I go the other way with my lucas mill slabber, cutting for speed rather than finish, as my clients are paying by the hour ,and will then go on to a secondary finishing of the timber. My angles of choice are 20-25° .
Play with the angles and find what suits you and your most common timbers.
Nothings ever lost when milling
Shaun

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22 minutes ago, skc101fc said:

Hi Lazarus,
Cut away with it as it is. It will actually produce a very clean finish, though slower to push through the log. Its a common angle for super hard and exotic woods. Change the angles back at the next sharpening if you need to. I go the other way with my lucas mill slabber, cutting for speed rather than finish, as my clients are paying by the hour ,and will then go on to a secondary finishing of the timber. My angles of choice are 20-25° .
Play with the angles and find what suits you and your most common timbers.
Nothings ever lost when milling
Shaun

Do you vary hook angles as well?

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No I leave hook angles alone and as spec. Mess about with them to any degree and you'll either get a dangerously snatchy chain or one which doesn't barely cut. Also accurate grinding of hook is so very much harder to judge/ measure accurately . Same with depth guages, I leave at spec for machine and chain. Milling chain lengths are expensive enough without amplifying the risk of chain breakage.

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Also because I'm cutting so many different types of wood I have to find the best compromise or all rounder set up to achieve good production rates. If I was doing all one species it would be worthwhile tuning the parameters to get the very best performance:quality balance, plus I'd probably still need to keep a number of standard set up chains just for the odd jobs. -Starts to get really expensive then !

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