Sanding a bowl

[mickdundee]

I've turned this bowl today. Spalted beech and I was getting a bit of end grain tearout. I resharpened, upped the speed and took a few light passes to get it to what I felt was as good as i could. Will any amount of sanding get rid of these radial marks. I don't have a reverse facility. I've sanded on the lathe but would I be better off sanding it another way. Thanks for any advice 

[devon TWiG]

Are you just holding a piece of sandpaper in your hand against the bowl spinning in the lathe ?    ...  I use small 2" dia foam / velcro  sanding arbors in a drill and will focus attention where / if required on troublesome spots like you have shown here , do not need high speed or much pressure , and I am sure 120/150  grit will remove those marks , it is a bit annoying when the marks only show up when finish (oil or wax ) is applied though .

[mickdundee]

15 hours ago, devon TWiG said:

Are you just holding a piece of sandpaper in your hand against the bowl spinning in the lathe ?    ...  I use small 2" dia foam / velcro  sanding arbors in a drill and will focus attention where / if required on troublesome spots like you have shown here , do not need high speed or much pressure , and I am sure 120/150  grit will remove those marks , it is a bit annoying when the marks only show up when finish (oil or wax ) is applied though .

Yeah twig that's how I'm doing it. The finish off the tool seemed ok but as I worked through the grits these became more prominent. 

I may put it back on the lathe anyway as I'm not sure I like the form. Might reduce the amount of slope on the rim and reduce wall thickness as well

[Lazurus]

As spalted woods can be soft the grain damage can go pretty deep, I learned a lot from Lyle JAMIESON on YouTube regarding tear out and how to avoid it, his series of videos I think are a must for any wood turner. he explains not only how, but why he uses the techniques he does. Well worth a peek. Oh yes and his boring rig is brilliant, I purchased it a couple of years ago and its the best system I have ever used.

[JonnieC]

Mickdundee - I think those marks will go. What grit did you start on? Most times I see this, people have started slightly too fine; if you can't remove any of the tear-out with a fine finishing cut (sharpen tools just before final few passes), I'd use the full range: 80, 120, 180, 240, 320, 400, 600. Each grit only removes the marks of the last grit, so don't move on from the rougher grits until these kind of tear-out patches have gone.
Sorry if any of that is teaching you to suck eggs - this isn't uncommon, and what I mentioned above has resolved the issue for others in your position :-)
Cheers.

[mickdundee]

I've had another go at it. Reduced the wall thickness a bit and got a better finish off the tool initially. Started with 80 grit and worked through and got a finish I'm reasonably happy with. Also I said from memory that this is beech but looking at it I'm fairly sure it's actually birch



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