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A few questions about logs!


Stumpy Grinder
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So, I've finally gained permission from the long haired domestic Commander to get a wood burner fitted and hope to get it in by Christmas. I therefore need to start getting some logs and kindling dried and ready to feed it with!

Before I go and waste money on rubbish kit, I thought it best to ask the experienced and knowledgeable folk on here a few questions first:

1. What's the best type (and height?) of log to use to split other logs on?

2. What's the best splitting axe/maul I can buy?

3. What's the best kindling axe I can buy?

4. What's the best saw horse I can get to saw logs on?

Any other tips or advice greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

SG:001_smile:

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1 depends on your height, and how you swing an axe. I find a bit below waist height works for me.

2 - I too use an Fiskars x27. It's good, but I'm not sure it's 4x better than a cheap £12 splitting maul from toolstation - I still use my old maul sometimes.

3 - I use any old hatchet.

4 - Truncator are good but expensive. I use a £25 basic horse from Machinemart if I remember right. Or make something out of wood (kinder to your chain), there are some threads on here about it.

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I like green oak or beech for a chopping block with a tyre on top (at least 20" diameter and the knottier/gnarly grain the better). With pine and spruce the axe can stick with every blow which can be a pain. The height of the block depends on your height but I rig mine so that the axe handle is parallel with the ground at its final place of rest.

 

The fiskars x27 is a most. Its sharper then a standard axe and thus very good on knots, but doesn't stick either.

If you want a maul as well the leborgne stuff is the business (we killed ourselves with one for years though and bought some hydraulic muscle in the end).

 

A cheapo kindling axe, wouldn't personally be fussed.

 

I use a hand made 'rack' type saw horse. Something like the 'orogen easy cut'. Very fast on small diameter stuff and great for everything else. Use a bungee or ratchet strap to clamp the load if you build your own.

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agree about the fiskars for splitting but as said any cheap axe will do for kindling, and the biggest gnarled log you have for chopping on, the tyre is a good trick too. As for a saw horse I have a cheap Mitox which I modified and it works well for smaller stuff.

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Some great replies there which I thank you for. Very consistent leader with the Fiskars X27 splitting Axe. Just ordered one for only £47! I also ordered a Fiskars X11 for smaller logs and kindling and a X5 to get the kids involved!:thumbup:

The truncator is an interesting looking device, as is the oregan easy-cut, but both a bit too commercial for my needs. Ended up ordering a Roughneck Loggers Mate for £58. Not sure what length logs I can go up to as yet with a 5KW burner, so I need to keep them quite short . I may well make something in the future.

All I need now is a chopping block! I'm pretty sure that the one we had on the farm in Devon where I grew up was made of Elm. Whatever it was, it was absolutely solid and the axe bounced off! It's probably still there! Large elms are sadly long gone, so I think a section of gnarly oak will probably be the best bet. Interesting to hear the height recommendations as I'd have probably gone a lot lower before reading the replies. The tyre on top has me slightly intrigued though? I'm guessing the log goes inside and it stops the split logs flying off too far?:confused1:

Thanks again guys, you've been most helpful.

It may seem like a naïve question, but the tree and logs are normally long gone by the time I arrive to do the stumps!:001_rolleyes:

Cheers,

SG

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Do you really need a separate kindling axe?

 

I just use the Fiskars X27 with a car tyre on a large 24" diameter lump of ash.

I think that the weight and lack of any give in a good chopping block on a concrete surface helps the Fiskars shock the wood into splittingwith less effort.

 

Try and keep up with this bloke!

 

[ame]

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ps I think he needs to do a work study so that his log stack is nearer and higher and he has a barrow or box nearby to put the split wood in to save too much bending and lifting

Edited by Billhook
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There is an optimum height in relation to your height.

It has to be above knee height and wide enough.

I use several size blocks for different size wood.

Short stuff 80cm block, longer stuff 50-60cm block.

The dangerous bit is if the block is too narrow or low, you end up swinging into the ground or your foot/leg.

When setting up spend a few minutes getting your distance and swing right.

I'm 180cm for reference.

Another thing, when your maul/axe gets stuck don't hit it with a sledgehammer.

Eventually you'll break both.

Always hit metal with a BIG mallet.

Have fun[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

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