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J-Cut Technique for windblown


chippermonkey
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A few years ago I was shown a J-Cut for windblown softwood trunks still connected to rootball. Was trying to remember how to do this over the weekend and not sure I do. I used it a few times and it worked a treat but not used since.

Is it shallow cut the bottom of the "J" under the trunk with the top of the bar, then bringing saw round moving saw upwards boring in half diameter depth, then at half way point up trunk, full bore through and up to finish the cut. In effect drawing a J in the trunk?

I'm and experienced tree surgeon and am aware of how dangerous windblown trees are!

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Chipper,

 

The orientation of the J depends if the plate is excreting pressure on the stem or away. But say plate is restrained and leaning back also Really important to assure side tension is also restrained if needed.

 

Start cut on top halfway deep down and under leaving a quater uncut. Go to other side of stem. Obviously not climbing over :) Then also on top of stem but a couple of inches offset towards top of stem away from plate cut down to finish quater. All been equal the stem will sever leaving one quater and three quarters on opposing faces.

 

Know you are experienced but important to trust your cuts and not move when doing the final severing as can be quite violent.

 

Cheers,

James.

Edited by Jimbo 76
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Must admit never sure where the 'J' cut name came from.

 

Its basically just a step cut u'd use for limbs when climbing, but which way u step it depends on the stem and tension etc (will rooy plate flop back down or fall towards u? stem spring up/down or sideways? etc)

U want the saw/step to be on he side which will move less.

I try to position myself in the safest area and do it all from there and not changing sides and if its a big stem i would run the saw over to the far side first and cut well throu the tree so when i'm making final cut not needing to use the whole bar struggling to cut the whole width of the tree.

But it all depends on the tree some freshly blown soft woods can be lethal the amount of spring they've got

 

Can u not still get the Nptc course handouts online? They used to give u daigrams etc

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Just watched that clip

 

Wot's the 2 opposing felling cuts for??

 

Looked like a leaning tree with root plate moving slightly, not sure why they didn't just put a normal felling curt in. And even putting the 2 opposing cuts surely the tree would of pinched the bars doing the back cuts?

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Must admit never sure where the 'J' cut name came from.

 

Its basically just a step cut u'd use for limbs when climbing, but which way u step it depends on the stem and tension etc (will rooy plate flop back down or fall towards u? stem spring up/down or sideways? etc)

U want the saw/step to be on he side which will move less.

I try to position myself in the safest area and do it all from there and not changing sides and if its a big stem i would run the saw over to the far side first and cut well throu the tree so when i'm making final cut not needing to use the whole bar struggling to cut the whole width of the tree.

But it all depends on the tree some freshly blown soft woods can be lethal the amount of spring they've got

 

Can u not still get the Nptc course handouts online? They used to give u daigrams etc

 

Hi drinks,

 

The name J cut is because the first step is in shape of J in a single motion.

 

Know each of us have our own ways of doing things but you really do need to do the cut from 2 sides. You can't lean over. And in forestry offen the timber is such if you leant over it may well end in tears not to mention size offen precludes this.

 

But agree with you vid is not the best and they didn't retain the plate so it moved.

 

Also you are correct doing the windblown course a will give you handouts you can always refer to.

 

Cheers,

James.

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