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AdamnRalph

Stenner 48

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Has anyone got a set of stenner 48 bandrack pit plans that they could share with me or has a stenner fitted who could give me some measurements? I've taken the plunge and bought one! Let the fun and games begin! It's a late mainly steel construction version with 12mtr bed and a 6mtr rack. It's the first one I've bought/used so any information would be great. Ps I've spoken to stenner and they don't have plans anymore:thumbdown: it's coming next week so I will get some photos of it and the fitting of it under my building if it's of interest

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I'm afraid all the old boys I knew are long dead re constructing the pit for a 48" but I have built a pit for a 36' if this helps.

 

This is twenty year old info so please excust omissions!

 

There should be 4" space below the bottom wheel.

Allow for your sawdust extractor on the RHS in the side (if this is an anticlock machine)and use a long 90 degree bend so the flow is easy. Leave a good spigot at floor level. You can add a chamfered pipe to get close to the bottom wheel later.... I had a metal enclosure but mine originally cut foreign hardwood so getting the dust away was important.

Allow for all the electrics at this point too, preferably in conduit for access later. Don't forget the rope/wire to pull cables through.

Emergency stop button & etc. There are rules for 30 second stop which Stenner will advise on, with an electronic device which brakes the motor but mine was never fitted with one. I think it is called 'A' stop or some such.

Allow enough space on the working side to access the blade easily. You don't want to have a fiddly bit here particularly handling a new sharp blade! My 36" had X 3 off 9" wide planks that came out so a 48 may be good for X4? This space is also good for sawdust cleaning access which will need doing.

You'll have to work from the bed base legs to get the height of the top rig pad so perhaps a dry run on wooden blocks to get your measurements.

On our old Guilliet there was a little set of table wheels that sat on the base casting of the top rig, just where the lower guide blocks were. I'm not sure if Stenner's have this but make sure these are with the set up when it arrives. I'm hoping you saw it running before it was dismantled?

Good luck!

codlasher

Edited by codlasher

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all you would need is the distances for the head rig mounting points or where they fix to concrete. build good heavy foundations to meet these points and leave plenty room in your pit for changing your band (12'' min). once you have fitted your head rig place a band over your pulleys and line your benches to the blade. done.

 

if you are going to cut enormously heavy logs put extra rollers or stiffen up the bench for a good straight cut

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Heres a quick picture of my guilliet. I built some metal frames instead of blocks to support the head rig because it will simplify the pit (essentially a rectangular hole in the floor 4' x 5') if you are handy with steel

DSC_0491.jpg.1914a24fa9223b9b4fbd62bb716b8dc9.jpg

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Heres a quick picture of my guilliet. I built some metal frames instead of blocks to support the head rig because it will simplify the pit (essentially a rectangular hole in the floor 4' x 5') if you are handy with steel

 

The pit I unbolted my Stenner from was concrete formed to point like a funnel and there was a 6" duct cast into it that went to a fan , this shot the dust from the pit into a builders bag. I am not sure if this was standard Stenner practice or just something the old boy that had it dreamt up but it seemed quite a neat set up and must have worked well because it was very clean in there.

 

Bob

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Heres a quick picture of my guilliet. I built some metal frames instead of blocks to support the head rig because it will simplify the pit (essentially a rectangular hole in the floor 4' x 5') if you are handy with steel

 

I'm a welder fabricator by trade so steel shouldn't be a problem. Is your motor bolted to the floor on slides or on your metal frame?

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I'm afraid all the old boys I knew are long dead re constructing the pit for a 48" but I have built a pit for a 36' if this helps.

 

This is twenty year old info so please excust omissions!

 

There should be 4" space below the bottom wheel.

Allow for your sawdust extractor on the RHS in the side (if this is an anticlock machine)and use a long 90 degree bend so the flow is easy. Leave a good spigot at floor level. You can add a chamfered pipe to get close to the bottom wheel later.... I had a metal enclosure but mine originally cut foreign hardwood so getting the dust away was important.

Allow for all the electrics at this point too, preferably in conduit for access later. Don't forget the rope/wire to pull cables through.

Emergency stop button & etc. There are rules for 30 second stop which Stenner will advise on, with an electronic device which brakes the motor but mine was never fitted with one. I think it is called 'A' stop or some such.

Allow enough space on the working side to access the blade easily. You don't want to have a fiddly bit here particularly handling a new sharp blade! My 36" had X 3 off 9" wide planks that came out so a 48 may be good for X4? This space is also good for sawdust cleaning access which will need doing.

You'll have to work from the bed base legs to get the height of the top rig pad so perhaps a dry run on wooden blocks to get your measurements.

On our old Guilliet there was a little set of table wheels that sat on the base casting of the top rig, just where the lower guide blocks were. I'm not sure if Stenner's have this but make sure these are with the set up when it arrives. I'm hoping you saw it running before it was dismantled?

Good luck!

codlasher

 

Cheers for the help codlasher conduit for the electrics is a cracking idea!

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