357 xp air leak

[Stubby]

No.

 

Jesus give me some credit.

 

Sorry .

[MATTMOSS]

Sorry .

 

so frustrating when you cant fix something.

........yet.

[adw]

Dont get upset but is the plastic o ring in the inlet boot? i do not think i have ever had any issues with leakage in this area.

[amfell]

Great where is that from?

 

straight off husqvarna's price list

[MATTMOSS]

Dont get upset but is the plastic o ring in the inlet boot? i do not think i have ever had any issues with leakage in this area.

 

Dont get upset, dont get upset!!!!

Ill tel you whos getting upset.

:lol:

No im not getting upset, just frustrated.

Fkin thing.

Ive had to walk away from it and have a brew twenty times.

 

Yes the plasting ring is in there.

Realistically i need to start again from scratch and get a new flange to see if thats the problem, it doest look destorted but ive had it off and on a few times and god knows who else before me.

I may try a smear of sealant as i re asemble.

Just want to do a proper job and i see that as a bit of a bodge.

Thanks for the replies fellas.

[adw]

There should be no need for instant gasket, hard to see it being the plate, however a new plate will allow you to tighten the screws well as they only screw into plastic. Is there no way that the curly inpulse pipe leaking, or the plastic nipple split.

[spudulike]

Sounds like Stubby is getting the sharp end of your failings:sneaky2:

 

357 - Leaks tend to be splits around the impulse nipple or the boot not fitted correctly. The boot MUST be put on by itself and has to align with the impulse hole in the cylinder correctly, you then push on the plastic clamp along with the metal clamp and then clamp it tight.

 

The method of detecting leaks doesn't work, the reason is the cleaner absorbs heat like crazy to make it evaporate, this takes the fuel vapour and turns it to fluid and tends to kill the engine. You must use oil or some other less volatile fluid - I have been there before and seen the results.

 

If you are fixing kit professionally then you owe it to your customers to use the correct kit so pressure and vacuum check rather than a "Cheap fix".

 

Back to the issue - liquid gasket can work, I have also done a few fixes that help with older but good manifolds but am sure you can work out similar methods:thumbup:

 

Best thing to do is to make sure that you actually do have an air leak and in this area!

[Adamam]

I had this exact problem in the exact same place at least once, maybe twice.

 

The issue was caused by an aftermarket boot and fixed with a Husqvarna boot. The pattern parts boots (at least from Farmertec/Huztl) are wrong by enough of a margin to (sometimes) cause air leaks.

 

Tried sealant to bodge-fix, but didn't really work well enough.

 

The OEM part is ridiculously expensive for what it is (maybe £20? can't remember) and is available from Greenstripe.

 

Maybe your issue isn't the same...

[MATTMOSS]

I had already replaced the boot with a genuine one and now ive replaced the flange the saw runs great.

I think it was the plastic threads were too worn not allowing the carb to be pulled up enough to make a good seal.

Thanks for suggestions fellas.