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And Amanda Holdens to the sixth formers.

@Mark BolamFound that Mark, it was just some 25mmx5mm flat bar I had, at the bottom of each drill the holes to match what’s on the individual handles currently there and weld the round bar 👍👍job done, you can as I did later move the holes slightly to increase leverage and reduce the throw if you are fussy, like I say it worked great.

Log Splitter Valve 80LPM (A&B 1/2" BSP) (P&T 3/4" BSP) Auto Kick Out WWW.APPROVEDHYDRAULICS.CO.UK The P81 is an on/off directional control monoblock valve that is designed as a log splitter valve. It is spring centered in one... The basic flow fit ones are sh1te, these are the best for log splitters.

Mark They can be swapped to single handed operation but the inlets and outlets etc are all on the wrong side, by far the best ( plus my original rock spool valve was goosed) was to swap the whole thing out, the bracket itself which it’s bolted onto is just something I had lying around, I took it to a local semi retired hydraulic guy who sorted it in no time. Total cost wasn’t too bad, the new spool valve was the same as the link put up in an earlier post. I originally had a length of flat bar bent in a U shape with holes to match where the two individual handles attach below the cover, onto that I welded a 6” piece of round tube. To be honest I preferred it as the extra height suited me and it was only the fact the original went tits up that I ended up fitting a replacement. I couldn’t find any pics but I’ll do a quick sketch and stick that on in a minute, very easy to make and works well.

Thanks for the information. Ill buy him the pla for now. I think that he thinks he is going to make a fortune making and selling fidget spinners and model surron's to his school mates!

Very harsh fellas. Very true.

Falteimer is the kiddie Steve. Not bettered yet. Redesigned Stein isn’t too bad. Yes, you need more than one.

I’d agree on the faltimer and FTC , I would not use another line, it’s lush and does not tangle anything like any other line that doesn’t have a mono core . 8oz and 12 is too light for me , I’m a 14 all day long with a 16 to manipulate the route …. Nothing worse than spending time getting the throw and it won’t come back down!

Sounds like you’ve got that bit sorted. I was thinking I could wind in the hi speed screw…. that would block it. Engine ought to idle on the low speed circuit. And buy the optional check valve 🙂

You’ll need a short length of flexi hose, so you can blow and suck through the drillings in the metering chamber. You should be able to blow through the main jet (and check valve) in the direction fuel flows but not draw air in opposite direction. The fun begins when you find air travels in both directions…. the problem could be the check valve or the accelerator circuit.

Falteimer or nothing. Had my oldest one for 16 years now, still fine. FTC stiff line is my favourite throw line, 8oz weight one side for throwing, 12 on the other.

It’s a really no nonsense device, it’ll work with anything it says it will. Personally I’d go as thin as possible so it’s as smooth as possible, so anything 11mm.

Silver leaf on live hawthorn and a split gill ( I think) on deadwood

For the sake of your sanity, wallet and personal life, get an ag contractor in to put up a proper stock fence. Depending on the breed, you could be trying to fence in smoke.. Once you've got it fenced, crack on with whatever hedging floats your boat, but I'd recommend leaving a gap between whatever you decide and the fence itself, for the sake of maintaining either.

Thats a shame. I have been wearing them for 15 years,or about 40 meters of rainfall. I re waterproof mine anually with Tekwash but the zips usually give up after a couple of years of pretty much daily use.

I see you're also asking about work having done CS30/31. Get either a Husqvarna 550 or Stihl 261 depending on which dealer is near you and you get on with. My advice would be don't buy secondhand, and don't buy online, you need somewhere you can walk in and ask for help. That'll probably cost a little over £600, don't buy something cheaper as you'll end up wishing you hadn't wasted that money. But if you get work as a groundie you shouldn't immediately need a saw, I'd start with boots, chainsaw trousers and helmet first.

I believe in the best tools for the job, so get one that is suited to your needs. but for that we need to know what your needs are. What are you wanting to use the saw for? What is your experience with them, and do you have a preference to use petrol, electric or battery (all depends what you are going to use it for and where). Does your budget also have to include the relevant PPE, things like a chain sharpening kit and fuel cans as well, or is that on top of just the saw cost.

Well, this one was hilarious, "make a wish" Trump has been awarded a FIFA peace prize. You might ask what a FIFA peace prize is... it is a special award for really really big and brave presidents for being really really special. Or... it is FIFA understanding how cheap a bung needs to be to get what they want with the world cup in the US next summer. Award was created this year, never one before and apparently not even the board of FIFA knew of its existence either. Special brave boy, for being really really brave....

I have had mixed results with ex army coats. Had one that was mint for a couple of years, subsequent ones were all shite.

I must have missed some news?

Echo 310 , cheap and cheerful, basic, you could learn on it and with a 14" bar you could fell 28" diameter trees and 400 left over . Depends what you want to do with it and what you intend doing with it . Move on to a better saw after you've learned . I expect to be laughed , but hey, I started with a stihl 017

How dare you trivialise the nation's grief. Consider arbtalk cancelled.

I can still remember mum coming into my bedroom to tell me about Lady Di. She honestly made a bigger thing of it than when granny died.