Horse Chestnut

[parkgate]

About 5 years ago I planted a conker in a large pot.

 

I now have a beautiful Horse Chestnut tree still in the pot.

 

The shape and thickness of the stem and general health of the tree attract comment.It stands out amongst other ornamental trees.

 

I have been warned however that soon the tree is likely to die due to fungus attacking such trees,

 

Is there anything I can do to prevent this?

[daltontrees]

About 5 years ago I planted a conker in a large pot.

 

I now have a beautiful Horse Chestnut tree still in the pot.

 

The shape and thickness of the stem and general health of the tree attract comment.It stands out amongst other ornamental trees.

 

I have been warned however that soon the tree is likely to die due to fungus attacking such trees,

 

Is there anything I can do to prevent this?

 

Horse Chestnut is susceptible to three common problems. Leaf Miner (Cameraria ohridella), Guignardia Leaf Blotch (Guignardia aesculi) and Bleeding Canker (Pseudomonas syringae pv. aesculi). These are almost ubiquitous in the UK.

 

Spray treatments are available to see off Cameraria and Guignardia (spray treatments) and it may be practical on a single smallish tree to spray preventatively. Bleeding Canker is a bit more difficult, and the best way to avoid it that I cna think of is to prevent physical injuries to the bark and to keep the tree as unstressed as possible, meaning mainly adequate watering in dry conditions, not overwatering, good mulching around and no competition form grass or weeds, perhaps occasional liquid feeding, all that stuff. Stressed trees are less able to see off the regular attempts of pathogens to infect and colonise them. Keep the tree healthy and it should live for a couple of centuries.

[Chris at eden]

Horse Chestnut is susceptible to three common problems. Leaf Miner (Cameraria ohridella), Guignardia Leaf Blotch (Guignardia aesculi) and Bleeding Canker (Pseudomonas syringae pv. aesculi). These are almost ubiquitous in the UK.

 

Spray treatments are available to see off Cameraria and Guignardia (spray treatments) and it may be practical on a single smallish tree to spray preventatively. Bleeding Canker is a bit more difficult, and the best way to avoid it that I cna think of is to prevent physical injuries to the bark and to keep the tree as unstressed as possible, meaning mainly adequate watering in dry conditions, not overwatering, good mulching around and no competition form grass or weeds, perhaps occasional liquid feeding, all that stuff. Stressed trees are less able to see off the regular attempts of pathogens to infect and colonise them. Keep the tree healthy and it should live for a couple of centuries.

 

To add to what Jules said:

 

Cameraria - stem injections are also now available to treat the issue which may be more practical. As Jules said, spraying large trees is difficult although I think they do it in the USA.

 

Guignardia - Not as serious as the other two issues and can be mitigated by removing leaf litter and burning during the winter. The spores over winter in the fallen leaves.

 

Pseudomonas - This one is a bit more interesting and as Jules said more difficult to treat. Chap called Glynn Percival has had some success in treating the disease with decompaction and Potassium Phosphite fertilizer. The decompaction can be employed proactively I would think as a preventative measure also. The fertilizer approach is said to boost the trees immune system so it can fight the disease itself. Glynn refers to this as a systemic induced response.

 

Cheers

[parkgate]

Thank you I will follow your advice - I would hate to lose it.

 

The other Horse Chestnut trees in the area seem to be ok.

[parkgate]

The tree is is now in full leaf - but the leaves aren't horizontal for want if a better word - slightly droopy - very green, no brown marks.

 

Also the thick trunk, 4 inches diameter at the base , 4 foot tree is covered in leaves - such that it looks more like a bush than a tree.

 

Should I remove the lower leaves?

 

I friend has suggested I also remove the growing tip - is this wise?

 

I water everyday and feed with "Miracle Grow" about once a week.

 

Finally ,whilst in the pot is this tree likely to flower?

 

Thank You

[Treeation]

The tree is is now in full leaf - but the leaves aren't horizontal for want if a better word - slightly droopy - very green, no brown marks.

 

Also the thick trunk, 4 inches diameter at the base , 4 foot tree is covered in leaves - such that it looks more like a bush than a tree.

 

Should I remove the lower leaves?

 

I friend has suggested I also remove the growing tip - is this wise?

 

I water everyday and feed with "Miracle Grow" about once a week.

 

Finally ,whilst in the pot is this tree likely to flower?

 

Thank You

 

I think phots would be useful at this point to help advice

[daltontrees]

If in doubt, do nothng. The tree knows how many leaves it needs.

[parkgate]

Tree leaves have gone very yellow - as if it was autumn - but still only mid August.

 

Any suggestions? 

 

Help!

[Gary Prentice]

I think you need a bigger pot!

 

I can't see any indications of H/C leaf minor and I'm pretty sure the discolouration/necrosis isn't Guidnardia. I think it's quite possible that the tree is drought stressed and possibly also lacking some essential nutrients (despite the miracle grow). Even with daily watering, it's a small soil volume which may become desiccated during hot days due to evaporation from the soil itself and the trees transpiration.

[parkgate]

Thank you for your prompt reply.

 

I will certainly replant the tree in a bigger pot.

 

Should I wait until autumn ,or is it time the tree went into the ground?

 

I thought the miracle grow would be enough -  can you suggest another way of supplying nutrients.I have used my nettle concoction ( nettles steeped in water for 2 months - very very smelly!).