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Maple Rot


TreeAmigosOk
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I have a maple tree and the bottom has been rotting. Leaves are all good. I had an arborist recommended do a treatment on it 2 years ago that was supposed to make it focus on fixing itself. It made the leaves smaller like he said it would. The sprinkler hits it and I was thinking about putting a plastic shroud to stop it from getting into the decay area....Any advice? 20170418_172649.jpg.2209d052babdf19f869471f9b8b1b6f9.jpg

 

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You have to remember that the tree has a significant defect that you have identified and that could result in failure. You will be liable for any harm that arises. If you want to keep the tree and accept the risk, fine.

 

What you need to do is make life as easy for the tree as possible; remove competing plants by which I mean the grass, and any other plants, all round it to at least a metre beyond the edge of the crown maybe more. Decompact the soil in this grass/plant free area, mulch with woodchip over the grass/plant free area. You could water with a dilute sugar solution a couple of times a year, water regularly anyway. Check the soil for its nutrient status, fertilize if necessary to improve soil fertility, but only if necessary. Finally protect from compaction, fence off, don't play, walk or trample around underneath it.

 

I wouldn't prune it either, even if your arborist says it will do it good, it won't. Creating more wounds and reducing its ability to 'feed' itself won't help in getting it to focus on healing itself.

 

sounds like good advice although having identified the defect, surely the next logical step would be to actually to assess the degree of strentgh left in the trunk by getting a professional inspection done by a competent person (if the owner wanted to keep the tree) and possible remedial pruning (if prescribed by inspection process) might make the tree safer by reducing lever arm and end weight.

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You have to remember that the tree has a significant defect that you have identified and that could result in failure. You will be liable for any harm that arises. If you want to keep the tree and accept the risk, fine.

 

What you need to do is make life as easy for the tree as possible; remove competing plants by which I mean the grass, and any other plants, all round it to at least a metre beyond the edge of the crown maybe more. Decompact the soil in this grass/plant free area, mulch with woodchip over the grass/plant free area. You could water with a dilute sugar solution a couple of times a year, water regularly anyway. Check the soil for its nutrient status, fertilize if necessary to improve soil fertility, but only if necessary. Finally protect from compaction, fence off, don't play, walk or trample around underneath it.

 

I wouldn't prune it either, even if your arborist says it will do it good, it won't. Creating more wounds and reducing its ability to 'feed' itself won't help in getting it to focus on healing itself.

 

sounds like good advice although having identified the defect, surely the next logical step would be to actually to assess the degree of strentgh left in the trunk by getting a professional inspection done by a competent person (if the owner wanted to keep the tree) and possible remedial pruning (if prescribed by inspection process) might make the tree safer by reducing lever arm and end weight.

Ok, sounds like there is a whole lot of "things" to do but, no definite solutions. Thank you guys for looking at this! I appreciate it.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Arbtalk mobile app

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Last tree question. Should I seal up the rotting areas with anything? The sprinkler hits that area and I can't change it. Or should I put something around the trunk to block the water

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Arbtalk mobile app

No, leave them open. Sealing off decay is an old practice very much frowned upon now...

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