Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

Advice - which Alaskan to get?


Hamburglar
 Share

Recommended Posts

I'm looking to begin milling, more hobby for woodworking than commercial. The saws I have are 023,026 and a recently purchased ms362. I was hoping to get a ripping chain on a 20 inch bar on the 362 and do some dabbling on 12-16 inch trunks. Ultimately, I want a 660, but can't afford yet.

 

Was thinking the small log mill, but don't want to buy two mills if I can avoid it.

 

Any advice is well appreciated. Great forum.

 

Many thanks in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Log in or register to remove this advert

Hi, If your looking to buy a 660 at some time in the future i would recommend that you buy the 30" mill. it would mean that on your currant set up you would have about 14" of rail sticking out the far end but this would avoid buying the 24" mill and then adding the 30/36" rails at a later date. the ripping chains are a good idea and as said in another post i would get a granburg and an oregon, the former will cause less friction on the smaller saw and bar. hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As Bob said if you're looking to go for an MS660 in the near future...

 

 

If you were just going to stick with the MS362 and 20" bar then small log mill would have been best.

 

 

 

:001_smile:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The main difference between the Small Log Mill (SLM) and the MkIII Mill is that the MkIII has two ends (which clamp the chainsaw bar) and a round bar between the two (for rigidity) whereas the SLM only clamps the saw at one end.

 

The most economic way is to buy a 24" MkIII Alaskan and use it as an SLM. Later on when you get the bigger saw you can get an set of longer bars to accommodate the larger saw.

 

Rob sells the Granberg (USA made) Alaskan bar 'rail kits' and I sell a UK engineered version with any length of rail you like.

 

A ripping chain is a must, do not try to mill with a standard 'cross cut' chain. The teeth/cutters bind in the wood and you will create a lot of strain on the chain and saw + the finished cut will be ragged and rough. If you have a spare/old standard chain for your saw, you can have it reground (sharpened) with a 10 degree, flat, cutting face.

Edited by Mik the Miller
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.