Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

Timber framing: marking out trees for milling.....


SteveA
 Share

Recommended Posts

I'm after info for milling oak trees.... turning them into approx 4"x4" or 6"x6" beams for timber framing.

 

What's the best way to mark out the tree to help limit the amount of warping, twisting?

 

Also need to cut a load of curved braces (oak) and wondering if it's best to keep the heart in the centre of those?

 

cheers, steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Log in or register to remove this advert

Depends on the spec and the size of the tree.

You need good quality oak for framing and i woukd suggest 4x4 is a little small for all but braces.

You need to make sure you are lined up with the grain perfectly when milling, but seen as you only ask about cutting square section there isn't really a way to limit twisting etc as you can't quarter saw a square. The best way to limit movement is to erect your structure as soon after milling as possible and use high grade material.

 

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Arbtalk mobile app

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depends on the spec and the size of the tree.

You need good quality oak for framing and i woukd suggest 4x4 is a little small for all but braces.

You need to make sure you are lined up with the grain perfectly when milling, but seen as you only ask about cutting square section there isn't really a way to limit twisting etc as you can't quarter saw a square. The best way to limit movement is to erect your structure as soon after milling as possible and use high grade material.

 

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Arbtalk mobile app

 

Re curved braces. These are best made from curved logs. If your cutting from small diameter logs uou can box the heart but from bigger logs it's best just to firewood the heart as it will have lots of big faults.

 

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Arbtalk mobile app

 

Thankyou.

I did wonder if 4"x4" would be a little small for main posts.

6"x6" sounds about right, I guess?!... it would definitely make it easier for marking out the mortices and tenons with a carpenters square.

 

I'm hoping to get started in the cooler weather, in preparation for erecting the main frame in the first part of next year, weather depending.

 

Would heartwood oak from straight stems generally be deemed as 'high quality material'?

 

Also been wondering if it's okay to use heartwood oak that's been on the ground for a number of years? (has been down long enough for the sapwood to have gone spongey).

 

cheers, steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It all depends on the individual tree.

Basic things I look for are.

Straightness of tree.

Twist of grain. Can usually be spotted from examining the bark.

Not too many large side branches.

Evidence of old wounds etc.

Old Oak with rotten sap wood could be perfectly good for framing or it may not be.

 

Best thing to do is make an accurate cutting list and try to cut the biggest beams first. When it's cut you can examine for defects and decide if its good enough. If it isn't you can see if you can work around the defects to get one of your smaller beams.

I prefer cutting timber put of bigger trees as you can see the defects earlier and work around them. However if the spec is for boxed heart the you obviously need smaller trees.

Good luck and feel free to ask for design advice.

Problem with using 4x4 as posts is that it doesn't give you the scope to properly support the joint above it.

 

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Arbtalk mobile app

Edited by muttley9050
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It all depends on the individual tree.

Basic things I look for are.

Straightness of tree.

Twist of grain. Can usually be spotted from examining the bark.

Not too many large side branches.

Evidence of old wounds etc.

Old Oak with rotten sap wood could be perfectly good for framing or it may not be.

 

Best thing to do is make an accurate cutting list and try to cut the biggest beams first. When it's cut you can examine for defects and decide if its good enough. If it isn't you can see if you can work around the defects to get one of your smaller beams.

I prefer cutting timber put of bigger trees as you can see the defects earlier and work around them. However if the spec is for boxed heart the you obviously need smaller trees.

Good luck and feel free to ask for design advice.

 

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Arbtalk mobile app

 

That's great thanks - we're making it to our own specs and don't need to go through building control as its for a mobile twin unit (seasonal workers dwelling).... just need to make sure it's built in two halves within a maximum external measurement of 20m length x 6.8m width and with a maximum internal floor to ceiling height of 3.05m (this all comes from the Caravan Act).

 

The closest example I've found to what I'm wanting to build is on the link here Mobile home, Witheridge, Devon | North Star Timber Frames ....and I think it looks like they've done an awesome job (considering the construction constraints).

 

They used Larch with oak braces.... wheras I'm thinking of doing the whole thing in oak.

 

cheers, steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's great thanks - we're making it to our own specs and don't need to go through building control as its for a mobile twin unit (seasonal workers dwelling).... just need to make sure it's built in two halves within a maximum external measurement of 20m length x 6.8m width and with a maximum internal floor to ceiling height of 3.05m (this all comes from the Caravan Act).

 

The closest example I've found to what I'm wanting to build is on the link here Mobile home, Witheridge, Devon | North Star Timber Frames ....and I think it looks like they've done an awesome job (considering the construction constraints).

 

They used Larch with oak braces.... wheras I'm thinking of doing the whole thing in oak.

 

 

 

cheers, steve

 

 

Hi Steve

 

Ive just finished my oak frame for my new house. Box heart as much as you can,but need the right diameter logs or you get a lot of board off it , if the quality is good enough,avoid to much heart on face if you can but harder to mill without to much waste. all mine posts are 8x8 sills 8x6 with some large 14x10 tie beams, keep knots to less than 30% on any face,no dead knots either,live ok. If you are starting out maybe get your eye in on less important pieces first. watch out for spiral grain. If you are ever in surrey drop in to have look, I could post some pictures or video if I new how on this.

 

good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Steve

 

Ive just finished my oak frame for my new house. Box heart as much as you can,but need the right diameter logs or you get a lot of board off it , if the quality is good enough,avoid to much heart on face if you can but harder to mill without to much waste. all mine posts are 8x8 sills 8x6 with some large 14x10 tie beams, keep knots to less than 30% on any face,no dead knots either,live ok. If you are starting out maybe get your eye in on less important pieces first. watch out for spiral grain. If you are ever in surrey drop in to have look, I could post some pictures or video if I new how on this.

 

good luck

 

Thankyou Chalky. Did you mill from your own trees?

Due to the logistics of our woods I'm planning on doing a mix of alaskan milling (in the woods) and dragging the easier to reach stuff out ready for hiring in a mobile bandsaw for a day or two.

 

I'd not thought about surface area of knots & spiraling.

 

I think most people upload videos to youtube and put a web link to it... but you can upload photos straight into arbtalk by clicking on the paperclip in the menu where you respond to comments (or post a new thread).

 

Pembrokeshire is a long way from Surrey, but thankyou. :thumbup:

cheers, steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thankyou Chalky. Did you mill from your own trees?

Due to the logistics of our woods I'm planning on doing a mix of alaskan milling (in the woods) and dragging the easier to reach stuff out ready for hiring in a mobile bandsaw for a day or two.

 

I'd not thought about surface area of knots & spiraling.

 

I think most people upload videos to youtube and put a web link to it... but you can upload photos straight into arbtalk by clicking on the paperclip in the menu where you respond to comments (or post a new thread).

 

Pembrokeshire is a long way from Surrey, but thankyou. :thumbup:

cheers, steve

 

Hi Steve

 

I felled all my oaks over the last few years and milled them then got the jointed, milling took 6 weeks and jointing 10 weeks,big old frame. Im fairly new to milling but you learn fast,any questions just ask but the lads on here really know there stuff so you won't go far wrong if you have any questions. look out for frame erection if I can upload it from you tube

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.