Recommend a flat file

[Woodworks]

What would you recommend for a flat file for dressing of chainsaw bars? Some bars are pretty hard and my last file did not last long before it stopped cutting. Presume second cut would be OK. Also will get used for filing depth stops but don't find these as hard.

[Jackalope]

I'd use a normal oregon flat file for doing my depth gauges- which I keep in my tool roll and take into the woods.

For dressing the bar I keep a large carpenters file (reasonably aggressive) in my tool box and use it as and when required- evenings, weekends etc.

[treequip]

If a file wont do it, judicious application of a 120 grit flap disc is the weapon of choice

[Woodworks]

If a file wont do it, judicious application of a 120 grit flap disc is the weapon of choice

 

 

 

Do you have some jig to make it cut at 90 degrees or just eyeball it?

[Jackalope]

If a file wont do it, judicious application of a 120 grit flap disc is the weapon of choice

 

It does, but when I was a greenhorn I toasted a bar by hitting the nose sprocket and flattening the tips of the teeth

[treequip]

Do you have some jig to make it cut at 90 degrees or just eyeball it?

 

For a short bar I would use a chainsaw flat file, they are cheap and sacrificial after all.

 

A flap disc is a "fast and nasty" short cut for a longer or heavy damaged bar. The footprint of the "heel" of the drive link is a shade narrower than the bar width (which is why you get the burr in the first place) so leaving a small (tiny) bevel on the outside edge of the bar is OK and will reduce the interval it needs "dressing" No need to get pre occupied over the 90 degree angle

[treequip]

It does, but when I was a greenhorn I toasted a bar by hitting the nose sprocket and flattening the tips of the teeth

 

But you are better at it now????

[Woodworks]

For a short bar I would use a chainsaw flat file, they are cheap and sacrificial after all.

 

A flap disc is a "fast and nasty" short cut for a longer or heavy damaged bar. The footprint of the "heel" of the drive link is a shade narrower than the bar width (which is why you get the burr in the first place) so leaving a small (tiny) bevel on the outside edge of the bar is OK and will reduce the interval it needs "dressing" No need to get pre occupied over the 90 degree angle

 

Thing is most of this is on the processor and it seems much fussier than my saws. Guess its because it cant wander at all.

[Woodworks]

Looks like Rob D has just the thing but no sizes given Products for the category: Bar maintenance tools

[Chippy]

Nicholson files are good, you can get them here.

 

Files, Flat Files