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Gear-less, tail-less retreivable redirect


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I came up with this a few months ago, as I was getting boggled by the complexity of some of the gear-heavy retrievable redirects that were being posted.

 

The original inspiration was a Precipice Knot (ABOK #391) but obviously needed to make it a bit more bomber than that! It's been tested by a few SRT guys including myself in the meantime and between us we've deemed it safe. It might not look it, but honestly try it out and let me know what you think of it.

 

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If you flick the line to say get it over some small branches in the way of your route or coming back through it will come undone though ??

 

It shouldn't do. It needs more of a loop rolled to it than a flick. It will stay in with a shaken rope if tied correctly. Obviously if you do flick or shake off some branches then be sure to check it's all still in place before loading it again

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Hi Dan, your incredible brain strikes again huh?! I like it, got me thinking though that re-directs really need to be put into categories, close ones, quickly used ones, out-of-sight, big pendulum, static/load sharing etc etc. Where does this one fit?

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That's really ingenious. Bet the H&S bods would have a problem over possible accidental release not while it's loaded but while it is momentarily slack in a position where fall potential would suddenly increase by the length of all the rope used in the knot. Anything over 500mm is I think a no-no.

 

A possible refinement would be to put a few twists in the final bight that is passed up through, because otherwise on bigger stems or with irregular bark one loop of the bight might not be pressed as firmly as the other and could drop out. If it is the working end loop, it will be constantly being tugged and the loop could inch its way out. It does this anyway, I have managed to get this not to collapse after repeated twitching. I can try and show this refinement in a pic of you want.

 

I have also tried a little variation that allows you to recover the rope by plling on the static end rather than the working end. Only tested so far on a kitchen chair, but it does seem to work. Easier to show than to explain. Again pic could be provided.

 

Great idea, by the way. I can see its possibility in DRT too, where recoverable redirects are a pain in the bum. Quite straigthforward now that think about it as long as, like in SRT, a suitable form of fork is available.

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Have you used this for work positioning for a fair bit of climbing/work or just for a quick redirect to get one branch and then come back in.

I think it looks great and was going to try it yesterday but could have been on it for a good 2hrs so thought I'd better just check what kind of stuff you have put it through so far.

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