Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

  • 0

Deodar Cedar Needle Drop


hedgehog79
 Share

Question

We have a very large deodar cedar in our front garden which is dropping a lot of needles. The amount of needles is about 1 wheelie bin full (so I supposed about 2 to 3 cubic meters worth) a month.

 

The tree looked quite healthy last year but this year I've noticed the tips of the branchlets at the top of the tree are all browning and this does extend downwards throughout some but not all parts of the tree. It also seems to be carrying a lot more deadwood.

 

I understand that these trees routinely drop needles but what is a healthy sort of level? Is there any way that I can reduce the quantity of needle drop? I'd really appreciate some guidance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Recommended Posts

  • 0
We have a very large deodar cedar in our front garden which is dropping a lot of needles. The amount of needles is about 1 wheelie bin full (so I supposed about 2 to 3 cubic meters worth) a month.

 

The tree looked quite healthy last year but this year I've noticed the tips of the branchlets at the top of the tree are all browning and this does extend downwards throughout some but not all parts of the tree. It also seems to be carrying a lot more deadwood.

 

I understand that these trees routinely drop needles but what is a healthy sort of level? Is there any way that I can reduce the quantity of needle drop? I'd really appreciate some guidance.

 

Pictures would help, are the areas of browning towards a particular area of prevailing wind? can you see any large silken nests in the canopy?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Log in or register to remove this advert

  • 0

Hi,

 

Thanks so much for your reply. I took some photos this evening which are attached. When I've looked at it again the South and West sides are pretty green with odd bits of browning. The main browning is on the North and East sides from the canopy through to the branches at the bottom.

 

The prevailing wind direction is South/South West, we live on the coast quite close to the sea so it's quite fresh/breezy.

 

I looked through the camera lens and some binos but I couldn't see any large silken nests.

 

I did name all the files but just in case

 

1st image is 2 weeks needle drop this time of year - in the winter it was much worse.

2nd image is the tree size.

3rd and 4th are needles browning on the south side

5th image is a closer view of the tree from the north side.

 

Thanks for your help.

597660bed6e8f_SouthSideofTree.JPG.815336a13608a820b962d58c15cf6f98.JPG

597660bed1db4_NorthSide5.JPG.096f994e6c98b4e97eb287976cd0bc40.JPG

597660bb5bf19_NorthSide1.JPG.de6eac8e0170486244b2c39c647ddc74.JPG

597660bb587ca_FullViewofTree.JPG.be813fa9777f9a98f8b8096098710ab0.JPG

597660bb56905_4weeksneedledrop1.JPG.c959f259736ebb813054cb94a7fa75d2.JPG

Edited by hedgehog79
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

that tree is in trouble, drought stress for one, needle drop and die back is probably related to the lack of permeable surface! no mycorrhizea ect, lift as many slabs as your willing mulch and try to get some agaricus augustus fruit bodies to innoculate the rootzone

 

or watch it die in the dry weather.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Thanks, I'll have to google some of those names!

 

We bought the house last jan and at the time I didn't really notice this level of browning through last year. It seems to be getting quickly worse although the needle drop was really bad all last year too. The previous owner planted the tree I think in the 50s and put the slabs down to control the drop. Is this what you meant by site history?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Yes, exactly:biggrin:

 

You can usually (not always) get/give a better diagnosis when the site/topographical history is know, so things like

 

When were the flags put down, what's happened to the roots, has the soil levels ever change, has there ever been salt damage?

 

There are many questions we can ask, these are just a few.

 

Keep us all informed:thumbup:

 

Sent from my Galaxy S2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

A little more on the site history. I can't be sure but I think the paving slabs were put down in the last 7-10 years as nothing will grow below it with the needle drop. Also the upkeep/maintenance was quite hard for the old man who lived here before us.

 

I don't know about the root system. The soil pH at the base of the tree is 7, I've been testing all round the garden for other planting. I can't be sure if this has ever changed but rhododendrons and camellias grow very well in this area so I think the soil in the area in general might be prone to slightly acidic.

 

There was another Deodar Cedar in the garden, within about 10m of this tree, which was felled 3 years ago due to poor needle retention and stunted growth.

 

I don't know if the tree has ever suffered salt damage, but the tree is within about 65m of a salt water harbour but I don't know if this would affect the ground water?

 

Thanks for all your help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
A little more on the site history. I can't be sure but I think the paving slabs were put down in the last 7-10 years as nothing will grow below it with the needle drop. Also the upkeep/maintenance was quite hard for the old man who lived here before us.

 

I don't know about the root system. The soil pH at the base of the tree is 7, I've been testing all round the garden for other planting. I can't be sure if this has ever changed but rhododendrons and camellias grow very well in this area so I think the soil in the area in general might be prone to slightly acidic.

 

There was another Deodar Cedar in the garden, within about 10m of this tree, which was felled 3 years ago due to poor needle retention and stunted growth.

 

I don't know if the tree has ever suffered salt damage, but the tree is within about 65m of a salt water harbour but I don't know if this would affect the ground water?

 

Thanks for all your help.

 

 

the slabs are its biggest problem, changes like laying a non permeable soil covering take at least ten years to show up, this makes me even more sure it is your slabs that are killing the tree. If the tree was planted in them from day one not so much damage would be done by it, but change soil regimes around a mature tree is a recipe for disaster.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.