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201T and Oregon lo pro 91VXL chain


Al Cormack
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I've been using some Oregon lo pro 91VXL on my 12" 201T the last couple of days, and the saw jumps around and snags all the time when cutting.

 

I've always used picco chain before and never experienced this kind of behaviour.

 

Anyone else have this problem?

 

Cheers...Al

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that's a semi chisel chain isn't it?

 

swap back to stihl full chisel and give the rakers a extra wipe with a file, it won't jump then, it'll just rip into the wood.

 

once had the lo pro chain on a 15" on my 560xp found it ok but I personally prefer a full chisel.

 

never had the symptoms you do scribe, never had it on my top handle either, just got rid of the naff husky chain and got a stihl full chisel.

 

ian

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

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It could be down to the length of the top plate in relation to the radius of the bar tip. If you grind the back of each of the top plates ( I have done this for carving bars) you might find that the problem is solved. there are threads on this somewhere vx chain is better IME but I think it has been superseded with newer chains.

 

http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaw-carving-forum/70252-grinding-heels-off-3-8-lo-pro-chain.html

Edited by Gnome
Found it !!!!
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You may find after a couple of sharpens the chain settles down as the difference from the top plate to the depth gauge becomes smaller and allows the saw to power the chain more smoothly through the wood.

 

I find it on the tiny makita top handled saw I have - ie. jumps around and grabs - not got the power to pull the chain through from new.

 

There's some method for smaller saws like this to move away from 3/8 lo pro down to 1/4" chain -this gives less drag on the powerhead and a much smoother cut (or should do in theory).

 

Will fire this over to Les Cork for his opinion.

 

 

:001_smile:

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It could be down to the length of the top plate in relation to the radius of the bar tip. If you grind the back of each of the top plates ( I have done this for carving bars) you might find that the problem is solved. there are threads on this somewhere vx chain is better IME but I think it has been superseded with newer chains.

 

http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaw-carving-forum/70252-grinding-heels-off-3-8-lo-pro-chain.html

 

I don't really know - but VXL does have longer cutters than most other 3/8" lo-pro chain. It should only matter regarding the Vibes etc. when cutting with the bar tip though.

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vx is almost the same as vxl except the length of the top plates are longer on the vxl so cannot really see how it would be different.

 

As far as I know, that is not correct. VXL cutters are ordinary semi-chisel, not chamfer chisel like VX. Also, the VXL cutters do not havef the low-vibe "heel".

 

Someone once told me that the cutters of VXL are Carlton - which would fit with the differenses, and well could be true (the brands have the same owner).

Edited by SawTroll
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It could be down to the length of the top plate in relation to the radius of the bar tip. If you grind the back of each of the top plates ( I have done this for carving bars) you might find that the problem is solved. there are threads on this somewhere vx chain is better IME but I think it has been superseded with newer chains.

 

http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaw-carving-forum/70252-grinding-heels-off-3-8-lo-pro-chain.html

 

I'm not a fan of the VXL myself. It is a bit more grabby and jumpy because of the long top plate. One of the first mods a person does for a woods modded or racing chain is to grind the back of the top plate at an angle. It runs more smoothly, with less drag. It is one of the first mods I make to my work chains.

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