Husky 135

[treeace]

I'm retired now but still need a chainsaw for cutting firewood and garden maintenance. All my working years I bought and used Stihl saws but six months ago I bought a new Husky 135. I've had trouble with the chain and guide bar from day one and after very little use I now have a chain with plenty of life left in the cutting teeth but drive links that are badly burred. Any one else had problems with this model?

[spudulike]

Sounds like you may have been given the wrong chain or bar for your saw. You need to match the sprocket, with the bar and chain.

The gauge will be 1.3mm, the pitch is probably 3/8".

 

It is possible someone has given you a 0.325" chain which would destroy the drive links!

[spudulike]

In fact - give us a picture of the bar with the part code etc, and the chain with a 12" Rule against it, the saw will be 3/8th LP (low profile).

[BishBashBosh]

Just went and got my 135 out of the shed to check.

 

Original Husqvarna 14" bar on mine, which is what 95+% of these saws are sold with. Spud's quite correct, they run 3/8LP (LoPro) Pitch, 1.3mm (0.050") guage.

 

How to check? The bar & chain markings will tell you all. Mine reads 578 18 66-52 9G

...................................................................,,,,,..................................... 14 91

 

The 52 on the top line is number of drive links.

14 91 is the length in inches (14) and Oregon chain type (91 = 3/8LP, 1.3mm guage)

 

Husky chain type is stamped into the drive link. you'll need to slacken it off and pull it from the bar to check.

37 is Husky's designator for Oregon 91PX (3/8LP, 1.3mm guage, low kickback)

36 = the older Oregon 91VG (same pitch/guage as above)

 

The important bit is to check the pitch/guage of the bar match the chain. 91 on the bar and 37 on the chain or 91 if it's an Oregon replacement chain. If that all matches next check the sprocket.

 

Has the chain been run very slack? I did have one occasion when I failed to tighten the single bar nut enough, the chain crept loose. Running it like that for long would possibly result in excessive drive link wear, although you'd probably expect to see some bar wear as well from chain slap, as you're an experienced user I excluded this, but always worth asking? HTH

[adw]

It may also have been fitted with a .325 pitch sprocket by mistake.

[treeace]

Thanks for the speedy replys Gents. Bar and chain appear to match up, apart from the 9S on the bar which differs from the 9G from BISHBASHBOSH.

 

The sprocket teeth appear to be untouched. I can't see any part number on it and not having worked on saws for a long time, I'm reluctant to remove it; unless someone gives me simple instructions.

 

The dealer tech. wasn't interested in my problem. According to him, this is quite common, caused by the chain coming off; the chain is knackered(his words); it's not possible to give me another saw even if I pay a price difference. His solution was to sell me another chain; I can give you a good price(his words). I wasn't impressed.

 

Any more advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

[peatff]

Mine's never done anything like that, never managed to slacken it's nut off on it's own either. Is that the original chain ? I've run a couple of cheap Ozaki chains from eBay on mine and not had problems with those either.

[adw]

Hell, how many times has that chain come off? i can see no other way to get that much damage on the drive links, this is not a fault with the saw, unfortunatly its your chain tentioning.

[Moony]

Are you sure the drive links are not bottoming out in the bar groove? Is the bar ok and are the rails worn down enough to allow the drive links to scrape the bottom groove? It also looks like the chain could be sloppy in the groove, IE. The bar groove is too wide for the drive links, (chain and bar are not a match)?

[Mark_Skyland]

I think your dealer and adw are correct. What have you done to that chain?!

 

I've reused many a thrown chain but that is scrap.