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Bracing help please?


stevelucocq
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Hello,

 

I am looking for peoples opinions on the following:

 

I have been ask to inspect a fruit tree. The fruit tree consists of a poor union between two stems. The right stem in photo below overhangs a well-used path. A wire brace has been installed in between the two stems (Drilled through and washer/bolt used to secure the wire bracing, shown as a red line on photo). It appears to be around 5 years old but no history of this work is currently known.

 

I was wondering what people’s opinions are of such work? I am not up to date with bracing standards (if there are any?) but I thought this bracing technique is not best practice (i.e. invasive)?

 

As for recommendations I was going to recommend the removal and reinstallation of a known bracing system i.e. cobra bracing Cobra Tree Bracing | Richmonds

 

Or complete removal of the smaller right leaning stem?

 

Thanks for any advice :thumbup1:

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Bracing standards are outlined in BS3998, which to my knowledge doesn't cover noninvasive as it's relatively new.

I'd say removal and install a cobra system anyway, but I'm far from experienced in the matter.

 

Is the union in good shape and just bracing as precautionary?

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Inspect the bolts and see how well it's compartmentalising around them and if the cable needs slackening... If it's not healing well around them ie they are loose and could pull then replace the whole system with a non invasive system , if the cable can't be adjusted and needs it just replace the cable.

Personally invasive bracing on some species works well as long as the cable as well as the bolt has not been absorbed in to the cambium and can still be adjusted ,it's pointless changing a system if it's working,and invasive although I've not installed any for a long time does work although obviously boa and cobra if starting from scratch would be a better choice... but removing that whole limb is a bad idea IMO and opens a large area of heart wood prime for the trees total demise.

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agree with matty and paul. cannot see red line but it looks to be halfway up?

 

if washer is big enough it might be fine. can you get a closeup pic?

 

UK is unique in its aversion to drilling, while at times advocating massive pruning wounds. Think about it--rather odd isn't it?

Standards and practice in the US are more balanced. Dynamic support makes no sense above an open crack. Why encourage movement where it can increase instability?

 

light reduction with poleclip may be warranted if there's any doubt about the brace aka cable.

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.........UK is unique in its aversion to drilling, while at times advocating massive pruning wounds. Think about it--rather odd isn't it?

Standards and practice in the US are more balanced.

.

 

not entirely true Guy, some UK practitioners were (and still are) using static bracing.

 

The one below being one of a number at at Burnham Beeches.....

 

I personally don't think the invasiveness is a big deal (on certain tree species) what puts me off is the time and handling aspect !

 

 

.........invasive bracing on some species works well as long as the cable as well as the bolt has not been absorbed in to the cambium and can still be adjusted...........

 

Like the last couple of images Matty

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Both types of bracing have there place. I find steel cabling and bar is better at the site of the weak union. And are static. There are examples up here done by my partner 30 years ago that have saved the tree. The tree has healed round the bracing.

Dynamic cabling like cobra is better in the canopy where it is just helping the tree.

If the tree looks healthy and hasn't declined since the fitting, leave the bracing in as I feel you would do more damage removing it. If you wanted to help then reduce the weight on the limbs.

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not entirely true Guy, some UK practitioners were (and still are) using static bracing.

 

The one below being one of a number at at Burnham Beeches.....

 

I personally don't think the invasiveness is a big deal (on certain tree species) what puts me off is the time and handling aspect !

 

 

 

 

Like the last couple of images Matty

.

 

 

Looks perfect to me David ... Maybe a little low .... I mean when the cable gets absorbed and becomes ridiculous taught because it can't be adjusted... The bolt and washers is great , It's great to see when beech do that, gives me a lot more confidence it won't pull.

Edited by MattyF
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There are always exceptions!

 

Eye bolts are old school and much more damaging. Through-cabling involves a much smaller hole. 1/4" hole for a 3/16" cable with 3990# breaking strength is new school. Rigguy, Inc >> Solving Your Challenges Through Innovative Solutions http://www.preformed.com/images/PDFs/sp3062-2wedgegripde__.pdf

 

no splicing, much less time and handling. This is what i had hoped I had hoped to do w that big Y-shaped cracking vet at Richmond Park. maybe this summer, pro bono?

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Height wise I would suggest is ok. Ideally it could have been higher. As has been said inspect the wounds and the cable. Rod bracing through unions is to reduce the risk of cupboard door failures where the union opens up like a door. Dynamic bracing whether invasive or non invasive aims to reduce the risk of pealing the union open like is typically seen. If there is a big concern then consider a light reduction or thin also to reduce loading.

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