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stihl 44 new pot and piston


markieg31
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Hello, probably something that has been covered before but....

 

I have just put an oversized pot and piston on my stihl 44, aswell as a double ported exhaust.

 

So going to have to run it in but was wondering about where I should be twidling the tuning screws to. I have put it back to factory at the mo..

 

And should I be putting in an extra glug of 2 stroke??

 

Cheers mark

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It always worries me when saw parts are modified or changed and the basic setup and function of the saw is not understood - that being said......

 

The factory settings on the carb are a must for a starting point.

 

First turn the L screw clockwise slowly until the revs increase and start to die off (if it stalls, set the screw back on factory and start again), undo the L screw slowly until the revs increase and begin to drop, at this point the saw will start popping and that is the point I look for.

 

Then adjust the H screw, if you rev it flat out, it should hammer or fourstroke at the top end, if unsure give the H screw 1 1/2 turns out and it will be really strangle the top end - screw the H screw in until a hint of fourstroking is still audible.

 

Cut some big wood and check the colour of the plug - coffee brown is good. white/grey is bad.

 

You could write a book on how to tune saws and tuning by tach, fourstroking and in the cut but this is a good starting point.

 

If you run it weak/lean - it will seize.

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Hello, probably something that has been covered before but....

 

I have just put an oversized pot and piston on my stihl 44, aswell as a double ported exhaust.

 

So going to have to run it in but was wondering about where I should be twidling the tuning screws to. I have put it back to factory at the mo..

 

And should I be putting in an extra glug of 2 stroke??

 

Cheers mark

 

If I change a pot, piston , or rings I always put some oil around the rings in the cylinder so they arent dry as the engine starts for the first time.

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