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Old 06-07-12   #4 (permalink)
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 383
Re: side weighted elm drop

Originally Posted by 18 stoner View Post
Daniel, cutting a deep gob like that does not significantly alter the center of gravity. Cutting it as deep as it was there, in stead of say 1/3 in, altered COG only 4 or 5 inches. Given the canopy(and COG) of the tree was yards behind the hinge, there was little if not no need to cut so deep.

One advantage of a deeper than normal gob, would be to acheive a wider hinge therfore giving more control. In this case however, the hinge was cut through by approximately 25% of its width, therefore eliminating the advantage of the wider hinge in my opinion.

As a result (as Big Ammer points out) cutting through the hinge at one side, to acheive the angled hinge, trapped the nose of the bar as it was within the closing face of the hinge. Given the extra risks involved with trapping the saw, and the posioning of the cutter as a result, incurred extra risk that was uncalled for.

Why was such a fancy cut needed when all the failsafe lines were in place, wouldn't a straight forward hinge have been just as effective, but much safer?

Or better still, why wasnt the house side of the canopy removed(like the near side) while the bucket was in place? This would have reduced any risk to a minimum, surely?
Those are actually good points of concern (for a change LOL)...
The answers are somewhat complicated... not sure if you really want to know... A lot of people will look at a video like that and say with all that set up you could have just used the bucket and rigged out that weight over the house.. Not really true.. While one or two people (mostyl just one) were setting up the rigging, other crew members were able to go about cleaning up the existing mess.. Also the log loader was on site and waiting, which is not only costly, but wastes his time.. so putting the tree on the ground as fast as possible was important.. let him take the logs and the clean up can be done later.. as was the case with my time. I had another job to get to.. once the trees were down, I was free to go..

A straight hinge may have worked, BUT NO WAY was I about to find out.. the retainer line was tied to a big limb stub ... BUT that stub was being torques sideways, making it much weaker... So the point of failure was unknown and I would have liked to have a lot more tension on the retainer line..

You can say the depth of the notch was only a matter of a few inches, and try to dismiss that, but how do you really know what difference that makes? I believe in throwing everything to the fallers advantage.. big 3120 husky w/ 36" bar made that notch quick and easy... More importantly was the added length to the hinge, allowing the lean side to be removed and still having quite a bit of length on the tension side.. That's just common sense...

And yes the bar nose did get pinched, which was more of a safety issue for the bar than me... If I felt at all threatened I would have left the saw and run! All the lean was away from me and nothing over my head at risk of falling.... I was happy the bar as undamaged... could have been worse.. a good (free) lesson to learn..

I still need to think about how that could have been done differently.. I wasn't happy with the communication with the skid op.. I'll have to talk to him about exactly what happened on his end.. It might have been better to preform the hinge with a bore cut and then step back and call for the pull, which I do on the vast majority of falls..

Hope that all makes sense..
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